Florida Weave Tomato Trellising System - Countryside (2024)
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Article and Photos by Kristi Cook – I don’t know about you, but there’s one thing about growing tomatoes that I don’t care for — caging them. No matter what type of caging tomato trellising system I’ve tried, be it the classic flimsy tomato cage, the sturdier cattle-panel trellis version, or the whole tying the plant to a stake (kind of like a witch-burning), no caging method has worked. Before summer is halfway over, tomatoes and plants are on the ground during the first heavy rainstorm or windy day. And forget about trying to get those giant plants back into their homes! However, all these troubles disappeared the summer I discovered the Florida weave tomato trellising system. Also known as the basket-weave system, weaving tomato plants between stakes and twine is economical, simple, and a major time saver — something all of us gardeners can use!
To get started, all you need are a few sturdy stakes and some twine. For stakes, nearly anything sturdy and rot-resistant will work provided it is tall enough to set at least eight inches into the ground and reach the top of the tomato plants. Some use thick wooden stakes, others use rebar, and still, others use T-posts with each having its own benefits and drawbacks. Wooden stakes, for instance, are inexpensive. However, because it’s best to use untreated lumber around food crops, the wood will usually rot enough during the first season that it won’t be usable the following year. Another drawback is that it can snap under heavy loads and windy conditions more readily than the other options. Rebar and T-posts are quite durable under heavy loads, won’t rot, and are easily set into the ground without breakage. The downside is the higher initial cost. Yet, because rebar and T-posts won’t rot and don’t break easily, you’ll get many years’ use out of them, making them much less expensive in the long run.
For the twine, choose any strong, non-stretching twine. Many gardeners use jute or sisal, but I have found these options stretch too much after a heavy rain when my plants are full and pushing against it, causing the entire system to fail. Over time, I’ve switched to synthetic baling twine that I recycle from my horses’ hay bales and have had no failures so far. As with all things, though, it’s best to use what you have on hand and experiment with your particular setup to see which materials you prefer.
Now for the easy part. To get your trellising system ready, determine where you want your tomato plants to go and set a post at each end of the row. Next, plant tomatoes as you normally would, every two to three feet. If the rows are on the shorter side, space posts every two to three plants. If rows are on the longer side, place a post between every plant to provide extra support.
Once plants reach eight inches, start weaving. Tie twine to an end post at six to eight inches off the ground and secure tightly. I like to wrap it a couple of times and hook it under the teeth of the T-post, which I find helps keep slippage to a minimum. Bring twine to the next post, placing twine against each plant. Make sure to keep the twine snug, otherwise growing plants will push the twine out and the system won’t work as well. Securely wrap twine at the next post, and continue down the length of the row. Once you reach the row end, wrap again, and repeat down the other side.
When finished, the plants will be sandwiched between the two rows of twine. Check growth at least once a week, adding a new row of twine for every six to eight inches of new growth.
The Florida weave trellising system is an economical, time-saving, and highly effective method for keeping tomatoes off the ground. And while many claim this system is best for determinate varieties, I’ve found it works just as well for my indeterminate ones despite the fact that I don’t prune. So, grab a few stakes, a bit of twine, your tomato plants, and give weaving a try.
Originally published in the November/December 2021 issue of Countryside and Small Stock Journal and regularly vetted for accuracy.
This system utilizes wooden stakes four to eight feet long by approximately 1 inch square, and twine woven around the stakes to train plants to a more upright growth habit, keeping foliage and fruit off the ground to prevent diseases.
If you've never heard of the Florida weave method (also called the basket weave method), it's a super fun way to grow a lot of tomatoes in a small space.
Many gardeners use jute or sisal, but I have found these can stretch too much after a heavy rain when my plants are full and pushing against it, causing the entire system to fail. Over time, I've switched to synthetic baling twine that I recycle from my horses' hay bales and have had no failures so far.
You'll spend more time pruning and training the plants - at least some time each week. You'll harvest fewer tomatoes per plant because some pruning will be necessary. Trellised tomatoes are more susceptible to sun-scald because they get less shade from leafy growth.
To start, set young tomato transplants about two feet apart in a single row. Next, drive a seven or eight foot stake about 12 inches into the ground at each end of your planned row. If your row of plants is long, add additional stakes in between every two plants.
Push the stake about 12 inches into the potting soil at planting time and loosely tie the plant's main stem to the stake using a soft cloth every 12 inches. Be mindful of wind—the staked tomato plant can easily catch the wind and cause the pot to topple over in a big gust.
This method of trellising, called the Florida Weave, is commonly used for tomatoes, but it can be used to tie up cucumbers, squash, and peas as well. Make a biodegradable netting by weaving different pieces of twine into a grid, and secure the grid on either end with posts.
The tops of the posts should be 5 or 6 feet high. Staple or tie concrete reinforcement wire or wire fencing with 6-inch openings to the posts. You can leave a space of about a foot from the bottom of the wire to the ground; it should be high enough that your tiller can clear underneath.
The stake-&-wire/hanging-string system can be used both in the field and in protected-culture settings, and works well for pruned, indeterminate tomatoes. This system makes it easy to prune and trellis indeterminate tomatoes because each stem gets a string, and any additional suckers are pruned off.
We tie lengths of soft garden twine from the bar and train the tomato plants to climb them. When a plant is 18 inches tall, we tie the bottom of a string to its stem and then twist the main stem around the string as it grows. If necessary, we use small plastic tomato clips to hold the stem and the string together.
Simply put, you run weatherproof garden twine between two stakes, weaving it around and back so there's twine on either side of each tomato plant. As the plant grows, you add more twine higher up the stakes.
If you want to grow indeterminate tomatoes in containers, it is best to grow them near a trellis or fence that you can train them up, or use very large pots that will allow large cages. Determinate varieties that I have grown and found to be sturdy enough to not require staking include: Bush Champion (hybrid)
A trellis is simply a support system for your tomato plants to keep them off the ground and promote good air circulation. Trellising is important because it supports strong stems, prevents disease issues, and allows for easier access to fruit.
I recommend planting two tomato plants on each side of the arch trellis, so four tomato plants total per trellis. Most arches are about 12 to 15 inches across on the sides, and that's a great width for one tomato plant on each corner.
Most commercial determinate tomatoes are produced using short stake culture for trellising. This type of culture produces fruits that are higher in quality and easier to harvest and enhances spray coverage.
Indeterminate varieties do better with cages because they can reach such heights, but your cage needs to be up to the challenge and offer support at least six feet tall. Of course, you can also use a stake for an indeterminate variety if it's tall enough, but that brings us to our next topic…
Tomatoes need at least 4 to 6 hours of sun per day and slightly acidic soil (pH 6.2-6.5) amended with organic compost. Mulching is also beneficial. Plant deep & remove flowers. Encourage deeper rooting by removing the lower leaves and burying stems up to the plant's second true set of leaves.
Introduction: My name is Kareem Mueller DO, I am a vivacious, super, thoughtful, excited, handsome, beautiful, combative person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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